We thought we would spend the glorious Belgian spring day in the small town of Baarle-Hertog with our dear friends visiting from Cambridge, Michelle and Grant. Of course, if you are going to visit Baarle-Hertog, you have to visit Baarle-Nassau. And I don't mean that in the "oh, it would be a real shame to visit Baarle-Hertog and not visit Baarle Nassau" type of way - it is physically impossible to visit Baarle-Hertog without visiting Baarle-Nassau. You see, this town has the most complicated international border in the world. Baarle-Hertog is a set of 24 Belgian exclaves, each of which is also a Netherlands enclave. To make matters more complicated, Baarle-Nassau doesn't just surround the 24 Belgian exclaves, it is also made up of seven Netherlands exclaves, each of which are Belgian enclaves by virtue of being within the Belgian exclaves of Baarle-Hertog.
Complicated? I need a map to explain.
Why is the border so screwed up? Basically this is the way all of Europe used to look. Feudalism cut and spliced Europe into tiny land fragments, all for sale to the richest bastard or free to conquest by a bigger bastard with a sword. Land was divided by sale or between sons during generational change, fused by marriages or purchases, gained or lost for arcane rights and taxation. Baarle was no different in being divided up between the Dukes of Brabant (“Hertog”) and the House of Nassau. What was different about Baarle is just how long the messed up situation has lasted. After the Belgian Protestants revolted against Spanish control of the Habsburg Netherlands in 1568, the Eighty Years’ War began.
The Protestants were rapidly pushed north (ironically out of Belgium, where it all started), but the situation soon stabilized along with is now essentially the current Belgian-Netherlands border. Spain refused to acknowledge the de facto independence of the Netherlands for 80 years (until 1648), freezing land claim disputes between the regions. Napoleon reunited the Netherlands and Belgium in 1815 but the union soon collapsed, in 1831, making it important to finally sort out the legal border. The Treaty of Maastricht in 1843 sorted out the border except for Baarle, which was complicated by the feudal owners now being divided by the new border. Eventually, in 1974, the enclave/exclave situation was agreed upon by both Belgium and the Netherlands, but it wasn’t until 1995 that a thorough analysis of the historical documents combined with GPS mapping made the official borders final (with a fair bit of shifting between 1974 and 1995 as the data became more accurate).
Of course, people were living in Baarle the entire time, and houses had been knocked down and rebuilt over the past 500 years, so that today’s border has no respect for the town planning. The border runs down streets, across parks and even divides houses and shops. Your bedroom can be in Belgium while your kitchen is in the Netherlands. For taxation and residential purposes, each house is deemed to be in the country in which the front door is located, so there are 2,306 Belgians in Baarle-Hertog and 5,330 Dutch in Baarle-Nassau. Some were surprised in 1995 when the final borders came out and the shift of a couple of metres turned Dutch into Belgians and Belgians into Dutch - the typical response was to change the position of the front door to get back into your old country. This was not merely patriotism - the front door move had serious taxation and regulation effects. A new door could change income and sales tax and even the opening hours of shops.

So what does it mean for a town where a few unsuspecting steps can mean that you are in a new country?
Well, a lot of services are shared. There is an international library, a joint cultural centre and joint provision of water, gas and sewerage. But a lot of stuff is divided along strict national lines. There are two Town Halls, one for Baarle-Hertog and one for Baarle-Nassau, two fire services (it must be difficult for fire-fighters to keep track of whether a fire is on their side of the border or not), two telephone services and two electricity services. There are even two police services - I hope there is a good extradition treaty! Can you imagine the difficulty in trying to track down a criminal who can run across twenty international borders in ten minutes? Of course, you could just surround the entire exclave and wait until they get bored of living in the same few square metres. Until 1860 there was only a single Church, but then the Dutch Bishop of Breda realised that this meant Dutch Catholics were attending a foreign (Belgian) church, so he created a second Church for the Dutch.

One of the most absurd situations is the postal system. If you put a letter in a Baarle-Hertog post-box for a Baarle-Hertog address it is dealt with by the local postal system. If, however, you post it to your neighbour across the road in Baarle-Nassau the letter is international, gets sent to Turnhout then Brussels, transferred to Amsterdam by air, distributed to the regional centre in Tilburg and finally delivered to Baarle-Nassau.

To make matters more complicated, it is only for taxation and residential purposes that the front door counts. For all other legal matters, where you are inside the building dictates what is permissible. The movie theatre crosses the border, so when a movie came out that was rated X in Belgium but not in the Netherlands the Belgian police sat at the back of the theatre to make sure the audience kept to the Dutch side of the theatre.
Likewise, an old pub spanned the border. Belgian and Dutch closing times were different, so when the Dutch closing time came the owner had to lock the Dutch door and move customers over to the Belgian side of the border for the rest of the night.
A strange and crazy system, but it all seems to work out fine. The weather was perfect, people were packed in the outdoor cafes, we ate fine chocolates and quality beers and came home with a international sun tan.
